Wild Wales and Celestial Trout

I’ve always been one with itchy feet, a restlessness to explore, and angling has always been the way I’ve been able to scratch that itch. From the wonder of discovering what’s round the next bend in the river, to the first glimpse of a mountain lake, fishing takes you to some incredible places. And in Wales we are truly blessed with a multitude of wild and wonderful waters, harbouring for the most part native wild brown trout.

Fly fishing in Wales has a centuries-long history, most of it centred around the lakes. While our fellow Celtic nations the Scots have ‘lochs’ and the Irish ‘loughs’, Wales’ plentiful hill lakes are called ‘llyn’ or ‘llynnoedd’ plurally. These have a rich and varied angling heritage, having been popular angling destinations for hundreds of years, while also giving birth to many homegrown flies and traditions.

Wild Welsh waters are perfect for those who seek solitude and value fishing in stunning, varied surroundings – with the added advantage of not having to travel to the ends of the earth. A place where you will find enough angling adventures to last a lifetime.

My interest in fishing these waters was sparked in my youth. My father bought me a book by Frank Ward called Lakes of Wales. This tome, cataloguing more than 500 Welsh fishing lakes was written in 1931. Nearly a hundred years on, it is still my bible for exploring the mountain lakes. It’s an intriguing read, with tantalising entries telling of wild and inaccessible places, tales of Welsh folklore and, in some cases, legends of monster trout.

Ever since, I’ve been heading to the hills, seeking to explore as many of these wonderful, hidden places as I can, sometimes in my own company but very often with friends. You see, it’s not just about the fish and the mechanics of catching them, as enjoyable as that is. It’s also about the journey, the sharing of the experience, the people you meet on the way and of course the sheer escapism of it all.

Sometimes, it is also all about the challenge. A remote blue dot is located on the map. A search for access begins, usually in an old book, and then online, looking for crumbs of information. Plans are laid, routes are identified. The day dawns with much anticipation and the climb begins, often deep into moorland, over bog and across heather-clad mountains. 
Sometimes we venture out through the fog; other glorious times the bright early morning sunshine beats down on our backs as we ascend, illuminating the landscapes in all their splendour.

The reward is that first sighting of the llyn, a tantalising shimmer in the distance. A place of legends, full of unknown promise. The first casts are always made in eager anticipation.
 
Are there still fish here? What will they look like? Will they rise freely, or sulk in the depths? All of these unknowns are sometimes answered, with a magical pull on the line. The prize, a precious bar of Welsh gold, beautiful to behold.

GO WILD : FOUR WELSH FISHING WILDERNESSES 

Some of Ceri’s favourite hill lakes in Wales are a 10-mile trek through the wilds, but others are within easy reach of the car. Many offer day ticket access through schemes such as the Fishing Passport. Just imagine casting your team of traditional wet flies while red kites wheel overhead, with the soothing sound of water lapping the shores and the odd splash of a rising trout. Sheer bliss.

Teifi Pools: Situated in the heart of the Cambrian Mountains near the village of Tregaron, this celebrated complex of five mountain lakes offers a combination of wilderness fishing with easy access - to the water’s edge if you like, or a just a short walk to explore off the beaten track. Fish typically range from half a pound to 2.5lb. Access is with Tregaron Angling Association.

Ogwen Valley: The iconic lakes of Yr Eryri (Snowdonia) are situated in arguably some of the finest scenery in the UK, from Wales highest trout lake Ffynnon Lloer (‘the well of the moon’) to Cwm Idwal, perhaps the most dramatic location you could ever cast a fly in. From the experienced mountain goat to the casual angler, Snowdonia’s lakes offer something for everyone. Fishing permits with Ogwen Valley Anglers Association.

Blaenau Ffestiniog: ‘The town that roofed the world’ is one of the best centres to explore the dozens of mountain lakes in the region, where the quarrymen of the Cambrian Anglers fished for generations, honing their fishing and fly-tying skills. The scenic Gamallt lakes and llyn Conglog should be high on your list, with a gentle walk over moorland being rewarded with majestic views - and if you time it right, biblical falls of heather flies and flying ants that can literally make the water boil with rises. Day tickets through the Cambrian Angling Association.

Aberystwyth Lakes: The hill lakes of Aberystwyth are more food rich than most Welsh hill waters, and can and do produce better than average wild trout; fish in excess of 3lb are quite common, especially in the Trisant pools near Devils Bridge. Day tickets and accommodation are with Aberystwyth Angling Association.